Useful Tips

How to choose an ice ax and ice tool

Important: reading this article will not make you a climber. Be careful to receive competent instruction from a professional climber and practice carefully using the ice ax in training mode before you find yourself face to face with real obstacles.

In this review, as it is narrated, technical terms used in special literature will be supplemented with words in brackets that carry the same semantic load, but more firmly entered into colloquial use in the environment of tourism and mountaineering.

Ice ax and ice tool - are sports equipment used by climbers and tourists to climb ice, snow-covered and steep mountain slopes. Additionally, by climbers and hikers, the ice ax is used for their independent belay on these dangerous terrains. Do not forget to warm up - buy thermal underwear.

Each of these devices has its own area of ​​application. You should not try to insure yourself with an ice tool when climbing, as it is less effective. The same cannot be said about the ice ax. On the other hand, passing through steep ice sections will be quite problematic for you, and sometimes even dangerous, using a long and even ice ax. In this case, the ice tool will be far more than appropriate.

An ice ax is one of the most essential tackle in equipment for a climber, used by him when making ascents. Often, an ice ax acts as an auxiliary support, an independent belay, often saving the life of its owner - an athlete or a tourist. An ice ax, as a rule, comes to the rescue when climbing a glacier, climbing snow-covered mountain slopes. As the steepness (difficulty) of the slope increases, an ice ax is usually used in conjunction with an ice tool. This technical tandem is usually very effective and therefore popular.

Climbers, hikers - hikers, glacier conquerors, climbers of different climbing styles and just people who are fond of travel and go on mountain hikes - all of them need an ice ax for their mountain adventures. The choice of a quality ice ax depends on your build and activity, plus a comparison of the length, weight, shape and CEN rating of the ice ax. Here are our recommendations for making the right choice.

Ice axes: a brief history

Ice axes have been in use since about the 1700s. Ice axes were popularized on a large scale by climbers in the Alps. In those days, the Alps attracted everyone with their amazing peaks, such as Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. With the passage of time, the image of the ice ax has firmly penetrated modern culture and has become a symbol of mountaineering and tourism in the mountains. The iconic ice ax has even appeared as a murder weapon, both in literature and on screen.

The ice ax, in addition to being used as a means of self-belay, was actively used by tourists and climbers to carve ridges in the ice surface when climbing on too steep slopes. The steps were cut with a pick (beak), and their alignment was performed with the adze (blade) of an ice ax.

With the popularity of hard steel crampons, mountaineering technique has changed significantly, and now the ice ax is used mainly as a means of self-belay. To fix the anchor points on loose snow or on caked perennial firn, the technique of deep driving the handle of an ice ax into the snow is used. On loose snow, the ice ax can be buried horizontally in the snow - for greater reliability. In this case, the safety cable is attached to the middle of the handle. Self-insurance on these slopes is carried out with an ice ax bayonet (supported on an ice ax).

On steep icy and hard slopes covered with last year's caked snow, into which it is problematic (or impossible) to drive a handle, self-belay is carried out with the help of an ice ax pick.

The structure of the ice ax and ice tool

Before choosing an ice ax and ice tools, first of all, you need to understand their structure and the purpose of the main components.

Ice ax.

Pickaxe (beak)

Top (head) with a hole for a carabiner

Teslo (scapula)

Lanyard (leash)

Lanyard stop

Handle (shaft)

Bayonet (thorn) with a hole for a carbine

Top (head): consists of a pick (or beak), an adze (or a shovel), a hole for a carabiner and is usually made of steel alloy. In specialized tools for conquering steep sheer ice and mixed mountain-ice ascents, the adze is rarely used and can be replaced with a striker. To do this, unscrew the screws and remove the adze. The saved weight of equipment while hiking can be a great advantage for you.

Pickaxe (Beak): This is the sharp end of an ice ax used to swing it into stone or ice. It is also the part of the ice ax used during the cutting operations on the ground. The pickaxe is characterized by its angle curvature and ground clearance. The curvature of the corner is defined relative to the axis of the steel top (head). Angles ranging from 65 to 70 degrees are typical for ice axes, taking into account that technical ice tools are made at a sharper angle between 55 and 60 degrees.

Clearance (bevel of the edge of the pickaxe, beak) - in practice, either positive or negative clearance is used. This is determined by comparing the angle of sharpening of the pickaxe tip (beak) to the handle (shaft).

Clearance scheme

Nowadays, the reality is that the polarity (“+” - “) of the clearance doesn't really matter because:

1) most climbers choose positive ground clearance;

2) both positive and negative clearance choices are equally good for penetrating ice or mountain surfaces.

Climbing expert, professional climber Michael Silitch says: “Positive ground clearance, as a result of its precision hook torque, provides better performance for climbing glaciers. Some ice axes with negative ground clearance are preferred for me in heavy snow conditions. be changed by you yourself, by careful grinding (sharpening) and selection of the desired angle and edge sharpness "

Teslo (scapula): A wide, spatula-like tip, predominantly used to carve a step for a step or place in snow or ice. It serves as a platform, easy to grip, holding on to it with your hand for belay. This opportunity provides an ascent using the so-called anchor technique.

Carabiner Hole: This is a hole in the head of an ice ax and a bayonet (spike), usually used to attach the ice ax to a lanyard (leash). Can also be used to attach an ice ax to a carbine.

Handle (shaft): Generally made of aluminum, carbon fiber (carbon) or steel. Each manufacturing option offers a different compromise to choose from - in terms of weight and strength. Heavy handles are generally stronger, although some lightweight materials such as carbon fiber are also extremely strong (but significantly more expensive).

Straight handles are better for canopies, self-belay, or for use in an anchor for anchor climbing technique. A straight handle is better and more versatile for mountaineering.

The curved handles resemble a small arc and are anatomically better suited for swinging and chopping into the ice. Curved handles are best for particularly challenging technical ascents and glacier ascents.In the upper comparison figure, examples are clearly shown - both of a straight handle of an ice ax and a curved handle of an ice tool.

Some handles are covered, partially or completely, with rubber for added grip. Athletic tape can be used to create extra friction in your hand with an ice ax, or you can wear rubber gloves to create extra friction if the grip is not rubberized.

Bayonet (Thorn): The metal tip of the ice ax is sharp, which allows it to penetrate the crust of snow and ice. It is primarily used as a stabilizer to maintain balance when walking on snow or ice, as well as a support. Some lightweight ice axes do not contain a bayonet to keep the weight of the gear lighter. This is achieved by slanting the lower edge of the handle. In many tools for climbing the slopes of steep glaciers, the bayonet has been removed over time. This design reduces weight and increases human safety when using the tool in the reverse, pull-up direction (using the tool, up and down, like a lever on a stone). Keep in mind that using an ice pick, like balancing a person's balance while climbing, the bayonet dulls over time. Regular sharpening will keep the bayonet sharp.

Lanyard (leash): allows you to ensure the safety of the ice ax, without the risk of dropping it into the abyss.

Choosing an ice ax

Due to European tradition, ice axes and ice tools are measured in metric units (centimeters). Length is determined by measuring the distance from the tip of the ice ax handle to the very top of the head. Usually ice axes are characterized by a measurement step of 5 centimeters and have a length from 50cm to 75cm. The recommended length of the ice ax depends on your size and type of ascent. Consider the basic recommendations for choosing.

Choice according to your dimensions

One popular way to find the correct length of an ice ax is to simply hold it in your hand while standing relaxed. The tip of the bayonet should barely touch the ground when standing tall with your arms down at your sides. People who are less than 172 cm tall or so could use a 65 cm ice ax for traditional mountaineering. Whereas for a tall person, say 188 cm and taller, a 75 cm ice ax is needed for the same task. It should also be noted that 2 people of the same height may have a different arm span, and, accordingly, different, the so-called “Gorilla Index”. Therefore, they may need ice axes of different lengths. A person's “Gorilla Index” is calculated as the difference between a person's height and their arm span. The span of the hands is measured from the fingers of the left hand to the tips of the fingers of the right hand.

Using the example of the well-known illustration "Vitruvian Man", it is indicated that, ideally, the span of a person's hands is equal to his height. Accordingly, the span of a person's arms should be related to his height as 1: 1. Therefore, the shorter your arms, the longer you need to pick up the ice ax, and vice versa.

Choice for the purpose of the ice ax

This circumstance also plays an important role in choosing the right length. Ice axes less than 60 cm in length are often used in extremely difficult (technically) ascents on ice, and on very steep slopes of vertically sheer ice. Since these tools are shorter, they are not very popular as fall arrest levers and are poorly designed for self-belaying. On the other hand, instruments over 70 cm are too long for climbing on snow or ice, but great for more flat terrain or gentle slopes. Long arms are used primarily for marching, climbing, snow anchoring, or sounding for rock ledges or crevasses.

Note: Ice axes that are too long make it difficult to belay on your own, as the bayonet (spike) can enter the snow at a lower angle, and you run the risk of falling off the cliff.

Finding a balance when choosing between more than two factors is generally better. If you plan on spending more time on gentle terrain (such as hiking climbing a mountain), then you should go hiking with a slightly longer ice ax. If you plan to spend more time on steep terrain (for example, in the hollows of a mountain using technical mountaineering), then you should go with the ice ax slightly shorter in length. The following table can be used by you as a rough guide for choosing the length of your ice ax.

Choice by weight of the ice ax

The handle of an ice ax is made from a variety of materials, usually stronger than others. Although handles were made primarily of wood in the past, aluminum, stainless steel, carbon fiber and their alloys are now more common. The old adage that "small - but daring!" should not be taken too literally when choosing an ice ax. The lightweight aluminum ice ax is an ideal choice for hikes such as ski mountaineering, glacier climbing, as it will help you maintain weight, balance and increase speed. But lightweight ice axes tend to be less durable and less able to penetrate hard ice than heavy and powerful ones.

While the ice ax itself can be tough enough to use, there is still a risk of bending or breaking when worn. Lightweight ice axes are manufactured with soft metal components and can also be more difficult to maintain and sharpen.

Tungsten carbide ice axes and stainless steel are heavier but more durable and therefore better suited for general mountaineering, couloir climbing, ice and rock terrain, and mountain rescue activities.

CEN rated selection

CEN certification can help you choose the right ice ax.

CEN is an abbreviation for - Comité Européen de Normalization, (European Committee for Standardization) is a European group of scientists that develops and approves standards for technical equipment and equipment. Take a look at the ice ax, look at the round CEN stamp that has the Latin letter B or T on it.

The arrow indicates CEN stamp B, applied to the handle of the ice ax.

Ice axes for traditional mountaineering are marked with the letter B (Basic) on the stamp. They tend to be lighter, cheaper, and less durable. Such ice axes are not reliable enough for technical ascents! Ice axes for technical mountaineering and ice equipment are marked with the letter T (technical) on the stamp. They tend to be heavier, more expensive, and more durable.

On technical ice gear, picks and handles are classified separately. Pickaxe can be CEN-T or CEN-B rated. It is possible, and indeed quite common, to have a CEN-T handle with a CEN-B pick. The CEN-B pick is thinner and more flexible in the context of its maneuverability, thus penetrating better into the glacier, the CEN-T pick is thicker and tougher, and better suited for mixed (rock and ice) climbs.

Ice tool Black Diamond Cobra Adze with rubberized handle

The following table lists all the comparative attributes:

Comparative table of ice axes.

The choice is based on the presence of a lanyard (leash).

The lanyard (leash) allows you to ensure the safety of the ice ax, without the risk of dropping it into the abyss. This is done by attaching the ice ax, using a lanyard, either on the wrist or on a cable. This, incidentally, is invaluable in situations where the loss of an ice ax could mean the loss of the main safety tool needed for the return descent.The presence of a lanyard on an ice ax is, in fact, considered a must by many climbers when they cross a glacier with deep cracks, or rock climbing on steep snow-covered slopes.

Many climbers have chosen not to use the lanyard. In certain situations, the lanyard in the harness simply acts as a safety strap to which the sharp ice tool is tied. This is done in order to prevent mortal danger to the rest of the expedition. Since, falling down, it can injure a person with its sharp end.

Ice ax Black Diamond Venom Hammer with lanyard included

Expert Michael Silitch, a professional climber, whether or not the lanyard is used or not, is: “When climbing a high mountainside with an ice ax lanyard on your wrist, you will have to pause at every turn of your ascent. As a result, you start to get nervous, and what is more dangerous - the effectiveness of your ascent decreases, because you can lose alertness. Of course, ultimately, the decision "to use the lanyard or not?"

A lanyard is essentially a piece of cord or strap that attaches to the carabiner hole in the head of the ice ax. Many companies offer a turnkey solution with an attached lanyard that is structurally fully compatible with an ice ax. If a lanyard is not provided by the manufacturer in the ice ax set, then it can be easily bought in our store.

Ice Ax Slider Leash

The length of the lanyard can vary from one type of climb to another, although it is more preferable to have a length with a margin.

The shorter lanyard makes it easier for the climber to control the breakdown of the ice ax. Such a lanyard is more preferable when climbing a glacier technically or when crossing a glacier.

The longer lanyard is best used when climbing steep snowy slopes or for technical mountaineering. It allows the climber to shift the ice ax from hand to hand without removing the leash. The length of the lanyard in this case, as a rule, is equal to the length of the ice ax itself.

Transportation of the ice ax.

When you travel, for the sake of your safety and the safety of the members of the expedition, it is necessary to close all sharp parts of the ice ax. This can be done with special and quality cases such as this one.

Black Diamond Ax Protector (413000) for the beak and blade of an ice ax.

Many backpacks contain items specifically designed to carry an ice ax or ice tool. These ice ax backpacks usually have 1 or 2 loops at the bottom and 1 or 2 straps at the top.

Afterword

To conclude the review, let's summarize. Every tourist or mountaineer needs an ice ax and ice tool. You got acquainted with the design features of ice axes and their parameters. We learned about the types of international certification of ice tools and ice axes. We learned how to individually select a tool for their height. You have learned about the basic mountaineering techniques, one way or another influencing your final choice. Received advice from professional mountaineer Michael Silitch.

Happy shopping!

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