Useful Tips

How to choose the right ski boots

How to choose the right ski boots?

Boots are one of the most important parts of a skier's equipment.You can ski on old skis wearing a jersey tracksuit, mittens and a hat with earflaps, but if they don't suit you boots, then you will never get pleasure from riding. More to the point, using the wrong shoes can hinder learning progress, ruin a carefully planned vacation, and cause long-term pain in the calf muscles or feet, toes and ankles. If your boots are not right for you, the most wonderful skis and the best places to ski will not bring joy. It is not worth saving on boots, this is unambiguous. Equally, it is not worth buying shoes from the last "model year", even if not in favor of their consumer qualities. We would like to voice once again the well-known rule, which has already become an axiom: equipment for the first year loses about 50% of its value.

Well-chosen boots will last you a long time. Even today we can see the Alpina model, which was very popular in the 80s of the last century, and other boots made 10-15 years ago on the feet of skiers of the post-Soviet space. And all this time they were used for their intended purpose!

There are various groups of boots. Which ones are the best for beginners?

To datethe variety of ski boot models is simply amazing.Each company produces dozens of different models, which are usually divided into several groups. This need is explained by a variety of combinations of two main requirements for boots: they must be as comfortable as possible and at the same time quickly and accurately transfer force to the ski. A variety of combinations of these, more often, mutually exclusive conditions, and leads to the need to manufacture shoes of several groups.

The simplest, but very comfortable boots for beginners and children are constructively not designed for riding at high speeds, with a difficult condition of the snow cover. And the hardest boots for professional riders are able to provide only a minimum level of comfort, because the main thing for boots of this group is the speed and accuracy of the transfer of force to the skis under those huge loads that the boots experience when the skier moves at high speed on a hard slope. The use of such models by beginners can generally scare them off from rolling, their legs can be extremely hard, and there is no way to bend the boot. Well, what's the fun here? Boots for beginners are another matter. They are soft, as comfortable as possible, the process of shoeing is simplified, they often have the ability to switch modes "riding-walking", which greatly helps to get used to unusual and unusual "blocks".

It is this model that should become the choice of your first ski boots.

How stiff should you buy?

What are the most important adjustments?

Manufacturers, depending on the class of boots, endow them with a wide variety of adjustments, having correctly selected the position of which, firstly, you can very quickly adjust the boots to your own foot, and secondly, they will help to take into account the peculiarities of the rack and the condition of the slope (for example, the stiffness switch is useful when transitioning from a hard, prepared slope to bumps). Most often, the design of boots for beginners provides for a set of adjustments, which we will now briefly discuss.

Most of the boot models are equipped with clips that serve to fix the foot. As a rule, the number of clips ranges from 1 to 4, and their design can be very different.In some models for beginners, which have a "rear entrance", that is, a folding back of the boot, this same function is assigned to a large clip with a built-in special screw. When tightening this screw, a tape is tightened inside the boot, which fixes the foot. There are also different variants of screws built into the boot with a flag that folds back to loosen the degree of fixation of the leg. The main function remains the same. In budget models for beginners and skaters, the clips are made of durable plastic. Less common is the combination - metal + plastic.

Usually, clips allow two adjustments: precise (usually a micrometric screw) and coarse (teeth), as a result of which it is possible to achieve optimal precise fixation of the foot and lower leg. Accordingly, general comfort is provided to you, due to the maximum release of pressure on them.

Many boot models have canting. It is used to compensate for the curvature of the legs by adjusting the tilt of the cuff outward or inward, relative to the outer, lower part of the boot. If your legs are X-shaped or O-shaped, canting will become a necessity.

For the purpose of tightly wrapping the cuff (upper part of the outer boot) of the gastrocnemius muscle and its additional fixation, a strap is also used that wraps around the leg along the very top of the boot cuff. Today, most often Kevlar fiber is used by manufacturers for the manufacture of this belt. The tightening makes it possible to grasp the calf muscle as tightly, quickly and at the same time very gently, fixing it not only in the inner part, but also relative to the cuff of the outer hard boot.

Adjusting the stiffness of the outer boot is necessary in order to increase the control accuracy skiing - the tougher, the more accurate. Racing models of a number of leading manufacturers, for example: Nordica, Lange, Rossignol, have this adjustment in two positions - hard and soft. Other models (Tecnica, Kneissl) are equipped with a spring with a regulator that allows you to smoothly change its stiffness. We are not entirely sure that such an adjustment will be very necessary for a beginner, so do not take it into account when buying boots.

A walk-and-ride switch will be very useful. It frees the top of the outer boot, making it easier to walk, stand in line on a lift, etc. In a little time, you will get used to the tilt of the boot, and such a switch will no longer be necessary. Of course, for a beginner, this supplement is very useful (of course, provided that the product fits your leg).

Shaped boot (liner, inner boot, the so-called felt boot).

It is necessary to pay special attention to such a design feature of the inner boot (boot) as the possibility of transforming the shape of the filler to better fit the leg. This function is no longer an adjustment function. Most likely, it has become a distinctive feature of most of the current models. Today there are several different types of materials that are used by ski equipment manufacturers in the manufacture of boots. The palm is held by the material that does not require special manipulations, because thanks to its physical properties, the boot filler is “auto-formed” along the wearer's leg, after a certain period of time after shoeing. It can take from one hour to one day of skiing, after which the material will retain the shape of the leg, which will provide comfort and the notorious accuracy of transferring forces to the skis.

In addition, materials have been developed and used that allow several times to perform "thermoforming" of the boot on the owner's leg, without using additional filling materials. A similar material is used in more expensive models.For a final fit in the most problematic places, such shoes just need to be heated from the inside with hot air using a special device that is available in stores, then put on shoes, fasten them, and walk for 10-15 minutes in them. With the help of this technology, it is possible to "re-fill" the boot when changing the owner, however, to do this only a few times.

Are there any differences between female models?

Or maybe it makes sense to immediately get a powerful, expert boot - isn't it better?

Do I have to buy special expensive socks?

Before putting on a shoe, you need to put on a sock, right? The ideal solution would be a thin, always ending above the boot, elastic toe that does not form folds on the leg. There are a great variety of special ski socks. Thick and thin, in a variety of brands and colors! There are thin socks with a thicker bottom, elastic thick socks, there are thin socks with a footprint as thick as an insole. In general, it will be quite difficult to decide. However, in the best way, the effort from the foot to the ski will still be transmitted, in the thinnest socks. If you only skate in them, they will last for a very long time, for five to seven years, so we advise you not to save on them. The cost of really good specialized ski socks can exceed $ 40, but here the golden rule - "the more expensive the fur, the better it is," also works. Sometimes, especially in cold weather, a leg in an ordinary sock will “climb” into a boot with great difficulty. And try to put on a thin nylon golf over the usual sock in which you are going to ride, and it will be much easier to put on shoes.

Which boot models are the best for beginners?

Try it on, try it on and try it on again. And also - get professional advice from a specialist.

How to choose a shoe size and how to try it on correctly?

One of the basic rules that apply when choosing boots is that under no circumstances should you spare time for fitting, and most importantly, boots should fit you as best as possible in the shape of an inner boot, “fit your foot”.

There are more than 25 companies in the world that manufacture ski boots of various groups and each of them has its own last, which differs from others in terms of leg volume in the instep, rise height, foot width, the relief of the filler in the ankle area, the height of the arch of the foot, width and height. cuffs.

Start by figuring out which model is most suitable for your leg. Information about what special qualities are inherent in various boots and manufacturers is published in specialized ski magazines, many recommendations can be found on Internet sites. And here I want to repeat that you should never listen to the advice of other people and buy shoes without trying on. Your foot has individual characteristics, and only you will be able to realize what and where is “wrong” in this model of boots. After choosing a model, and carefully putting on the sock in which you are going to ride, double-check your foot size.

In stores with a name, there are special stands for determining the size according to the width and length of the foot, taking into account the fact that the sizes of shoes from different manufacturers may differ slightly. The general rule (albeit a very approximate one) - if you have a wide foot, then you need shoes half a size larger than the length of your foot in centimeters. It is also important to measure the length of the foot exactly at the moment when it is under load, that is, you are standing on both legs with your knees slightly bent. This requirement is explained by the fact that under the influence of the load the bones of the foot slightly diverge, and it increases in size: in length - up to 5 mm, and in width - up to 12 mm! Only for this reason, it is necessary to measure the foot and try on shoes in a standing position, and not in any way sitting.

Another option (not entirely accurate, of course, but still) for checking the correct size is to remove the boot from the boot and stand in the outer boot with your foot in a toe so that the thumb rests slightly on its front part. There should be a distance of approximately 25 mm behind the heel, which is enough for you to stick your crossed, middle and index fingers there. When carrying out this measurement, one must not forget that, as a rule, manufacturers make an outer boot of the same size for two subsequent foot sizes, that is, for example, for boots with sizes 27 and 27.5 (or 26.5 and 27 for another manufacturer) the outer part will be exactly the same, and the inner one will differ in the thickness of the filler. If the boot fits your size, slide the boot into place and put on your shoes. The first impression is that the shoe is too small. But there is no need to rush, looking at the large sizes. The thing is that a modern boot will, to a lesser or greater extent, "crumple" over your leg during riding and looking cramped during the first fitting, will be just right after two or three days of riding. Fasten (but do not tighten!) The clips from the bottom up first. Stand up and swing your leg back and forth, from side to side. Then bring the knee forward so that the heel "sits" tightly in its intended place. Now tighten the clips. The boot should fit the foot tightly everywhere, it may be a little tight - after all, its filler, taking the shape of a leg, has not yet softened. As soon as this happens, you will begin to fasten the clips much more than when you first tried it on. Be sure to pay attention to this, because if you have already tightened them to the last position, then there will be no way at all to tighten them when it is really necessary. The fingers should not rest, but at the same time they should not be too loose either. Do an experiment. On one leg, put on a boot of the same size, and on the other - on a different size floor. Once you feel the difference, figure out which one suits you best. You can do this with a boot of the same size but of a different model. Also try to lift the heel off the insole - it shouldn't come up. Sit down, slowly at first, then sharply. If you are thrown backwards, perhaps this boot is too stiff for you, or you need to choose a model with a stronger forward cuff inclination.

If nothing bothers you, tighten the clips a little more. Stay (not sitting, walk at the same time, move) in your shoes for 15-20 minutes. Try to feel if the upper part of the tongue is pressing on the leg when it is bent, if there is an unpleasant sensation in the calf muscle from the top of the cuff when it is tense. If there are no painful sensations, the leg does not dangle, does not grow numb, does not slip from side to side and back and forth, and everything satisfies you - congratulations. You have made your choice.

There are also a number of recommendations that may seem optional, but it is still worth listening to them.

Firstly, you will visit several stores and consult the managers, try on 3-5 different models of boots in each of them in order to find out which one suits you best. In addition, it will allow you to understand the cost (and possibly adjust your claims). Try to try on boots in the evening, because your feet will slightly increase in size by the end of the day. By the way, as a rule, a person has one leg slightly larger than the other, so try on both boots. Keep in mind that in a warm room they will be much softer than when riding, even in the sun in early spring. The materials from which the boots are made become much less flexible in the cold. By choosing boots, inspect them carefully and try all adjustments again.Anything can be, because practice shows that not a single thing can be insured against accidental marriage.

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